Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
First off, don't worry. This is likely a minor problem. All self-defrosting refrigerators have a drainage system. The heater that runs during the defrost cycle melts the ice and frost, and the resulting water flows through a hose or tube that runs down the back of the refrigerator into a tray. The heat generated by the refrigerator's running then evaporates the accumulated water.
If water is dripping inside the fridge, its drainage system is probably clogged. Before you do anything, unplug the refrigerator just to be safe. Then locate the refrigerator's drainage system. It could be a cup behind/beneath the crisper that's connected to a hose. Fill a turkey baster with hot water and a little baking soda and release this into the drain hose. You might also need to use a small piece of wire or pipe cleaner to push a clog through to the drain pan.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
When a refrigerator is running, it's cooling to the level set by the thermostat/cold control. The compressor should cycle the refrigerator off when it reaches the required temperature. The fridge should also "turn off" for the defrost cycle.
If that's not happening, there are three easy ways to discover what the problem is:
1. Try turning the thermostat to a warmer level. If the refrigerator doesn't cycle off, it could be a problem with the thermostat.
2. You should also check the condenser coils on the bottom/back of the fridge. If they're dirty, the refrigerator won't operate as efficiently.
3. The most likely culprit is the defrost system. A refrigerator should cycle off when the defrost timer signals a cycle. Locate the defrost timer knob in your refrigerator freezer, and turn until it clicks. A defrost cycle is 22 minutes. If your refrigerator doesn't cycle on in 22 minutes or so, you likely have a faulty defrost timer or defrost terminator.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
This is usually a simple problem, unless your refrigerator is not running either. But if it's just the light that's out, check that the bulb is screwed in securely. If it's burned out, replace it with a 40-watt appliance bulb. For safety, unplug the refrigerator before doing so.
If the refrigerator light still doesn't work, there's one more do-it-yourself thing you can try. Unplug the refrigerator again and pry loose its door switch. Carefully remove all wires from the terminals. Take the door switch along to a hardware or appliance store and buy a similar replacement switch. Connect the wires to the new switch and position it properly (again with the refrigerator unplugged).
If after replacing the door switch the refrigerator light still does not work, you probably have an electrical issue that will require a licensed professional.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
A little more specificity here is important. If it's your freezer that is too cold, set the temperature to a warmer level and give it 24 hours to adjust. If it's still too cold, then it's a thermostat or cold control problem.
If it's the refrigerator that's too cold, the issue is more complicated (assuming you've already tried setting the temperature to a warmer level). The thermostat/cold control might be broken. A faulty evaporator fan motor might be making the fridge run too long. It could also be a condenser fan issue. If the refrigerator door isn't closing properly it will make the unit run longer as well.
Some refrigerator models also just have a great deal of internal temperature variance. If food is freezing only in certain areas of the fridge, try to arrange your food items accordingly.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
This is likely a compressor problem. However, there is one thing you should check on your own before calling in a technician. A refrigerator compressor can become overheated due to dirty condenser coils. The coils are black and radiator-like and located in back of your refrigerator. Their job is to dissipate heat, and a buildup of months or years of dirt will impair their efficiency. Clean off the coils, and then monitor the refrigerator to see if the problem continues.
If the refrigerator is still cycling on and off, you'll need to call a professional. The problem could be caused by a faulty start relay, the condenser fan motor, or compressor overload. If the problem requires compressor replacement, you're probably better off buying a new refrigerator. A new energy-efficient refrigerator is a more worthwhile expense than a new compressor on an old fridge.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
This is either a freezer door issue or a problem with some element of the defrost system. A refrigerator with a freezer door that is open too often or doesn't close properly can't defrost properly. A blocked or clogged drain hose that removes the melted frost and ice from the refrigerator freezer could also create a defrost problem. Try thawing the hose with a turkey baster full of warm water.
If the above causes are eliminated, you're probably dealing with a faulty defrost timer, defrost heater, defrost terminator, or thermostat. A refrigerator freezer should run a 22-minute defrost cycle about four times a day. If that's not happening, find the defrost timer and click it on. You should hear the defrost heater kick in. If so, you've got a faulty defrost timer. If not, it could be a heater problem. If the defrost cycle doesn't end properly, the defrost terminator is the culprit.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
If the troublesome odor doesn't seem food related, the drain pan under the refrigerator could be the cause. Try cleaning and disinfecting it. But in most cases, a refrigerator odor is a lingering reminder of spoiled food.
Some odors are so bad they remain even after the spoiled food has been removed. A thorough wash with an ammonia cleaner and warm water mixed with baking soda should eliminate the smell. If not, try leaving an open box of baking soda in the fridge. Another home remedy for bad refrigerator smell is to put a few individual bread slices into the fridge for a day. Bread is a surprisingly good odor absorbent, and if you repeat the experiment for several days you should see an improvement in the refrigerator's smell.
If the odor persists, it could be that a liquid spill seeped into the refrigerator's insulation. If so, you'll need to call a service tech to replace it.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
If the leak is occurring outside of your refrigerator, the likely culprit here is the drain pan. The frost and ice that melt during your refrigerator's defrost cycle become water. That water moves through a drain hose and into a drain pan located in the bottom rear portion of the fridge behind its grillwork.
Once in the drain pan, the water is supposed to evaporate due to the heat created by the refrigerator's operation. However, a manual drain and clean of a refrigerator's drain pan should be done annually. While cleaning it, check the drain pan for holes or leakage.
If the drain pan is not at fault, your refrigerator may have a broken or clogged drain hose. A leak in the water line would also cause puddling.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
The most likely culprit in this situation is your freezer's temperature setting. Move it to a colder temperature, and check the freezer again in an hour or two. Make sure you understand the temperature controls and have not actually turned the temperature up instead of down. Overstocking can also create air circulation problems in your freezer that prevent it from cooling properly.
If your freezer or refrigerator freezer is still warm, test the door switch for the freezer's interior bulb. It might be staying on after the door closes. If your freezer has an icemaker, check to see if it's stuck in ejection mode, and clear away any ice cube blockage if it is.
If none of these answers resolves the problem, your freezer's defrost thermostat, defrost heater, or defrost timer may have malfunctioned.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
The first thing to check in this situation is the temperature of your refrigerator's freezer. A temperature above 0 degrees to 5 degrees F could keep ice cubes from forming. The next thing to check is the icemaker's water supply or water inlet valve. This valve can sometimes be blocked by ice cubes or just by frozen water. If you can unblock it by hand, do so, or if it needs thawing, use a hair dryer to briefly and carefully thaw the water tube. Don't melt any plastic parts!
Another possibility is that the bail wire/signal arm on the refrigerator's icemaker is stuck in the off position. If so, pull it down, and the icemaker should resume production. If these steps fail, check that the refrigerator's water supply line isn't kinked or bent.
If you still have no ice, it's likely a problem with the water filter or defrost thermostat.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
In normal circumstances, a refrigerator remains "on" until the temperature inside matches the set temperature on the thermostat. The thermostat or cold control cycles the compressor on and off to maintain temperature. The compressor also goes "off" during the refrigerator's defrost cycle.
So if your refrigerator is running constantly, you either have a problem with the thermostat/cold control or the defrost timer. If the refrigerator is still cycling off to defrost but otherwise runs constantly, then you may need to replace the thermostat/cold control.
To check if the problem is the defrost timer, turn the timer knob until it clicks into defrost mode. Standard duration for a refrigerator defrost is 22 minutes. If after 22 minutes your refrigerator has not cycled on, then the defrost timer has stopped taking cues, so to speak. Defrost timer: exit stage right. Enter stage left: new defrost timer.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
Well, this could be a lot of things. For example, if you have a cat that likes to sit behind the refrigerator, check that the cord hasn't come unplugged. If the fridge is still plugged in, a tripped circuit breaker is a likely culprit. If your refrigerator is plugged in via an extension cord, it shouldn't be. A bad extension cord might be the problem here. Another possibility is that the refrigerator's power cord has been damaged.
All of those solutions are assuming there is no power at all going to the refrigerator. If the light is on but the refrigerator isn't running, check that the thermostat setting isn't too high. Test the defrost timer (turn until it clicks and wait 22 minutes for the fridge to start running). If that doesn't solve things, a professional will have to check the wiring, thermostat, or compressor.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
This problem could be caused by any number of things. First of all, make sure the thermostat/cold control on your refrigerator is set to a cold enough level. If your refrigerator has power but isn't cooling even slightly, you'll need to call a repair tech. The problem could be caused by the compressor, thermostat/cold control, defrost timer, condenser fan motor, etc.
However, if your refrigerator is cooling, but just barely, check the condenser. The condenser coils are located under the fridge or behind a bottom panel, and are thin, black, and radiator-like in appearance. Disconnect the refrigerator, and clean the coils. Do this only if you think enough dust or pet hair has accumulated to affect the refrigerator's performance.
If frost or ice has visibly built up in your refrigerator freezer, the cooling problem is likely defrost-related (defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat).
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
Refrigerators are inherently noisy things. Hissing, popping, sizzling, and bubbling sounds will emanate even from a properly functioning refrigerator. But if a certain refrigerator sound seems just a little too weird or annoying, it could indicate a problem.
If your refrigerator rattles a lot, it could be due to:
- an uneven floor
- dirty condenser fan blades
- a loose drain pan
The condenser fan is found near the back of a refrigerator, often behind a panel. Unplug the refrigerator before cleaning the fan. If it's noisy but not dirty, the problem is the motor. As for the drain pan, it's found under the refrigerator, and can be adjusted or taped in place.
Many of the louder noises a refrigerator makes are from old parts that still work properly. Chirping or squealing sounds could be coming from the circulating fan. Parts on the back of the refrigerator such as the compressor or defrost timer can also become noisy. The only solution in such cases is to replace the noisy part.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
This problem is due either to a freezer door issue or a self-defrost issue. If it's the door, damaged door gaskets or a freezer door that's out of alignment could be responsible for the ice buildup. If the door on your refrigerator freezer has recently been damaged or isn't closing properly, fix that first before exploring other options.
A refrigerator self-defrosts about four times a day. If a part of the self-defrosting system stops working, the refrigerator keeps cooling. This causes frost and ice to build up on the evaporator coils, which keeps air from the circulating fan, which in turn prevents the refrigerator from cooling properly. It sounds contradictory, but if there's ice building up in your freezer, your refrigerator probably isn't cold enough either.
If the problem is with your defrost system, it's either the defrost timer, defrost heater, or defrost thermostat.
Refrigerator troubleshooting tip:
Assuming you've already tried setting the refrigerator temperature slightly higher, this problem could be due either to a poorly designed refrigerator or a faulty thermostat.
If it's a design issue, it might just be that certain areas of the refrigerator, such as the back portion of the top shelf, are colder than others. If so, arrange your food accordingly, or consult the manufacturer. If the refrigerator is under warranty you might be able to exchange it.
Otherwise, this is in all likelihood a thermostat problem. Replacing a faulty refrigerator thermostat is definitely a do-it-yourself job. The thermostat is usually found under the refrigerator's floor panel or in the back of the freezer. Just make sure to buy a thermostat compatible with the make and model of your refrigerator.
Other potential causes for this problem besides a faulty thermostat are a leak in the refrigerant system or a defective air damper.